Our Legacy Pre-Fall 2019
Having increased its offering by incorporating womenswear into its world, Our Legacy has also expanded its reach, presenting the brand’s first full Pre-Fall collection for spring 2019. The clothes the designers presented informally in New York gave no hint of the cold and dark that has begun descending in Stockholm, nor could they be placed within the escapist category so many designers checked for spring, despite the fact that the team members had high summer in mind as they designed. Not that this is surprising, Our Legacy cofounders Christopher Nying and Jockum Hallin aren’t given to fantasy; they keep their feet on the ground.
This in no way implies that the designers’ work is prosaic; the story behind the collection, as Nying explained it on the phone from Sweden, would make a great treatment for a short, as it encompasses many emotions and has a clear trajectory. The location? Southern Europe. The setting? A bistro or trattoria with checkered tablecloths and a makeshift screen on which a football match is projected. (The game playing behind the models in the lookbook is Roma versus Juventus, in case you were wondering.) Food is increasingly becoming part of fashion culture, and in this collection, Our Legacy cooked up some appealing casual sportswear by borrowing elements from “bistro workwear,” as well as fabrics usually used for chef’s wear. In addition, the team developed deliberately skewed takeoffs on tablecloth and dish-towel prints. In the women’s collection, the workwear adaptations were most clearly expressed in the apron skirts, particularly a fetching black silk number. Proportion play was a strength on the men’s side, and a standout look was an oversize suit from which all the stuffing had been removed.
Also playing up the epicurean theme were the blurred T-shirts based on food packaging and signage. Transparent knits over prints also created a warped effect. These were meant to replicate the way neon looks in sunlight or the fuzziness that sometimes happens as the eye adjusts to different light levels. If a tropical print hit an off note, burgundy velvet separates added intrigue and suggested a whole arc of events and emotions from the upbeat anticipation of getting dressed to go out (crisp shirting pieces, say) to the “crying makeup” feeling of disappointment or melancholy that might arise if one’s team loses (velvet). The larger part of this collection was aimed somewhere in the happy middle and designed to be worn hanging out in casual local places where, as the ditty goes, everyone knows your name. If that isn’t lagom, we don’t know what is.