Moon Choi Ready-to-Wear Fall 2019
New York has been saturated by so many emerging labels that buyers and editors face the insurmountable task of separating wheat from chaff, no doubt losing many precious grains in the process. It is the only reason one can fathom missing Moon Choi, the young Parsons grad from South Korea making such simply covetable clothes and possessing that rarest of qualities: a real ability to learn and evolve her fledgling brand.
Choi continued to demonstrate this preternatural skill with her third presentation. Her first two were exquisitely curated, evoking a cerebral elegance with references to curios and the charting of stars. Though beautiful, this sort of jewel-box staging can become overly precious. Clever Choi exchanged it for something more modern: an empty soundstage, in which she erected a clear plastic structure framed with wood for a “circular viewing.” Light shone from behind through the panes, which were ribbed and frosted like fogged-up mirrors. At intervals through the hour, models walked around the structure and stood in place for guests to admire the well-made clothes.
These were informed by Choi’s continued exploration of duality and fluidity. Here, she played with layers, creating petal-like embellishments on coat shoulders. On a practical note, she made two smart additions: jersey and knit items, which were a more commercial complement to her silk and wool pieces. Highlights included the stretch-jersey tops, twisted at the front not only to hug the body but create a sinewy trompe l’oeil curve, and a cashmere sweater with a snug hood. Matching double-faced coats came with hoods, as well, and though Choi’s genderless suits continued to ground the line, they were complemented by silk midi and stretch square-necked dresses to generate a fuller picture of Choi’s world.