Missoni Ready-To-Wear Resort 2020
In the current political and social climate, freedom is a vital, non-negotiable value that has to be strongly safeguarded and protected. Fashion, as a cultural force and a communication tool, can definitely help convey messages of self-determination and of independence of spirit and behavior. “As a designer, you have an influence,” said Angela Missoni. “It’s very important what model of woman you choose to project and propose through your work.”
The ’70s have always been a favorite inspiration for designers. Yet, today, that era and its exploration of free expression seems more poignant than ever. Missoni’s Resort route pointed right in that direction: “It’s a celebration of the sense of freedom, of discovery, and individuality so vital today,” said the designer.
A free-spirited attitude was at the core of the collection, which was full of great pieces mixed and matched the inventive Missoni way. The looks were styled with an artsy-boho vibe, as if straight out of Elsa Peretti or Lauren Hutton’s closets. Sleeveless tunics were worn as waistcoats layered over pleated skirts or proposed as fluid maxidresses. Shapes were elongated and feminine and the pattern play was compelling, a magpie mix of archival motifs and newly minted ones creating a sort of pictorial camouflage. Leopard print was also given the Missoni treatment. Inspired by the pattern of a Tibetan rug, it was translated into a standout slim duster, which could double as a dress worn over pants, knitted in a jacquard design of abstract foliage.
The artisanal feel, one of the label’s strong points, was conspicuous in knitted lurex maxi-kimonos. Dubbed “Rositas,” since they’re Rosita Missoni’s go-to everyday item, they were worn with high-waisted palazzo pants or floaty dresses. A subtle touch of soft, masculine tailoring was in evidence in malleable blazer-cardigans while a fringed cape-shawl in colorful striped lamé induced visions of a latter-day Gloria Steinem. Today, we need those strong-headed types more than ever.